The Winding Road of Wine in Texas
Texas holds an unexpected history as one of the earliest states to plant Vitis vinifera, the European grape species used for fine winemaking. This journey began in the 17th century with the establishment of Spanish missions in western Texas. Franciscan missionaries brought vines with them as they founded settlements along the Rio Grande in 1659, both for sacramental wine and to plant vineyards that flourished by the early 1700s close to the New Mexico border.
By the early 1800s, the sandy soils near El Paso yielded a style of light red wine that gained fame among Santa Fe traders as “Pass wine.” At the same time, Italian immigrants Frank Qualia and his family used the native Lenoir grape to establish Val Verde Winery in 1883, just north along the Rio Grande in Del Rio. Val Verde stands today as both the oldest winery in Texas and a living tie back to early winemaking in the state.
Beyond the western expanses, much of central and east Texas saw enthusiastic attempts at winemaking using native varieties like Mustang grapes and Muscadine through the 1800s. While quantity and quality remained low, this period marked a spirit of exploration and discovery of the potential held within Texas soils and climate. The pioneering work of viticulturist T.V. Munson in Denison, Texas during this era also deserves note, as his research on phylloxera-resistant native rootstocks ultimately saved the wine industry in France and beyond.
Prohibition marked a stark turning point, halting most Texas wine endeavors by the early 1900s. Even after the repeal of Prohibition nationwide, Texas held onto “dry” laws banning alcohol sales in many counties up through the mid-1900s. A few bold souls persisted, like C.O. Forester who hybridized grapes in the Lower Rio Grande Valley from 1938-1995. But outside of sacramental wineries like Val Verde, very few commercial wine grapes were grown in the first half of the 20th century.
Texas Wine Heads West
The modern trajectory of Texas wine began in the late 1960s when researchers at Texas Tech University in Lubbock planted some of the first Vitis vinifera vineyards in the Texas High Plains. Inspired by this promising research, a young Dr. Clinton “Doc” McPherson co-founded the pioneering Llano Estacado Winery in Lubbock in 1976. His vision set the High Plains on a course to become the nucleus of Texas’ wine grape production. The prescience of McPherson and other early High Plains growers was validated in the late 1970s, when parts of the region were designated as an American Viticultural Area (AVA). This newfound credibility enticed others to join the fledgling industry, with plantings expanding through the 80s and 90s. Today, the Texas High Plains AVA accounts for nearly 4,000 acres of vineyards, predominantly planted to Spanish and Mediterranean red grape varieties. The region’s high elevation, fertile soils, and hot summer days create ideal conditions for grapes.
The prescience of McPherson and other early High Plains growers was validated in the late 1970s, when parts of the region were designated as an American Viticultural Area (AVA). This newfound credibility enticed others to join the fledgling industry, with plantings expanding through the 80s and 90s. Today, the Texas High Plains AVA accounts for nearly 4,000 acres of vineyards, predominantly planted to Spanish and Mediterranean red grape varieties. The region’s high elevation, fertile soils, and hot summer days create ideal conditions for grapes.
Pioneers of the Texas Hill Country
As momentum built out west, the Texas Hill Country emerged as another pioneering wine region in the 1970s. Anchored by the German-heritage town of Fredericksburg, the charming landscape of hills, springs, and limestone drew adventurous grape growers like Ed and Susan Auler. On their family ranch property in the small town of Tow, the two planted their first Bordeaux grapevines in 1973, establishing Fall Creek Vineyards. They tapped the wisdom of renowned Russian winemaker André Tchelistcheff to help guide them along the way.
Throughout the 1980s and 90s, the region gained more wineries to meet growing tourist interest. Operations like Becker Vineyards, Grape Creek Vineyards, and Pedernales Cellars worked to establish the Hill Country as a destination for wine touring and tasting. Beyond Fredericksburg, wineries branched out into nearby towns like Comfort, New Braunfels, and Hye. Today, the Texas Hill Country is recognized as one of the state’s premier wine regions covering more than 9 million acres with more than 1,000 acres of vineyards and over 100 wineries spread throughout the region.
The Rise of Texas Wine
The pioneering efforts of early wineries in the High Plains and Hill Country regions laid the foundation for Texas wine to flourish at the turn of the 21st century. After years of trial and error in matching the right grapes to Texas’ challenging climate and soils, winemakers started unlocking the state’s potential to make world-class wine.
In recent years, The Texas Wine Growers organization has been instrumental in advancing legislation to bring more transparency to wine labeling in the state. For years, wine labels followed federal standards that only required 75% Texas grapes, with 25% potentially sourced from out of state. Members of Texas Wine Growers pushed for stronger laws over several legislative sessions to support in-state grape growers and authentic labeling. In preparation for the 2021 session, Texas Wine Growers collaborated with other associations to draft a compromise called “The Grape Compromise.” This legislation, which passed, now requires wines labeled with a Texas county, American Viticultural Area (AVA), or single vineyard to be made from 100% Texas grapes. This gives consumers confidence that wines bearing Texas locales are fully sourced from those regions.
Supporting Texas agriculture allows the wine industry to grow, making the state more renowned for quality wines. This increases tourism and brings massive economic value through jobs and spending. By securing truth in labeling laws, the Texas Wine Growers organization has paved the way for further advancement of the Lone Star State’s burgeoning wine industry. Their efforts bring accountability that protects both producers and consumers interested in authentic Texas wines.
With over 9,300 acres of vineyards spanning the Texas High Plains, Hill Country, North Texas and Gulf Coast regions, the Lone Star State has experienced robust growth in its wine industry. Today, commercial vineyards exist in over half of Texas’ counties, cultivating more than 70 different grape varieties. As the fifth largest wine producer in the United States, Texas generates 2 to 4 million gallons of wine annually. The state now counts over 440 wineries that contribute to an economic impact of $20.35 billion for Texas. Through the tenacity of its grape growers and wine producers, Texas has firmly established itself as an ascending leader in the American wine landscape. The future is brighter than ever for the Lone Star State to take its place among the great wine regions of the world.
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